ULYSSE NARDIN SAN MARCO

Maker: Ulysse Nardin
Model: San Marco
Reference: 133-72-9
Year: 1990's
Serial: xxxx
Material: Stainless Steel
Dial: Blue Flinqué Enamel
Dimensions: 37mm
Crystal: Sapphire small scratch close the centre
Clasp: Original bracelet fits wrists 19cm
Box & Papers: none

Crafted by the storied Swiss maison Ulysse Nardin, the San Marco collection threads the brand’s maritime heritage with a dress-watch clarity. The stainless–steel case offers strength and practicality; the 37 mm size wears confidently without ever shouting. The dial? A rarity. Flinqué enamel, so deep and rich, every ray of light seems to ripple across it like waves on a calm sea. The original bracelet remains — an elegant chain that embraces the wrist with an easy but assured fit. The sapphire crystal above bears one small scratch near the centre — a whisper of lived time, of wrist-movement, of genuine use.

Inside, you may imagine the precision that Ulysse Nardin has long been known for: a brand that once supplied marine chronometers to navies around the world. This watch, from the 1990s, hints at that legacy: understated, reliable, quietly confident.

Morning: The Continental Calm

Setting: An early breakfast meeting at Café de Flore, Paris.

Pair the San Marco with a crisp white Oxford shirt, a navy cashmere crewneck, and light grey pleated trousers. Slip on chocolate suede loafers and a pair of tortoiseshell sunglasses. The watch’s enamel dial catches the morning light, glinting subtly as you reach for your espresso.

Here, the San Marco acts as a quiet confidant—refined, composed, and distinctly European. It complements a wardrobe that values understatement over excess, much like a perfectly tailored jacket that never needs to announce its label.

Style cue: Keep the cuff just short enough to reveal that ripple of enamel—let the dial be your conversation starter when words fall short.

Afternoon: The Coastal Escape

Setting: A spontaneous drive along the Riviera coastline.

Switch the formality for off-white linen trousers, a navy polo shirt, and espadrilles—barefoot confidence personified. The steel case and bracelet of the San Marco glint against sun-warmed skin, balancing rugged ease with cultivated grace.

This is the San Marco in its natural element—a maritime soul translated for modern leisure. It feels as at home with wind tousling your hair as it does beneath a blazer cuff. The enamel dial mirrors the Mediterranean horizon, where sea and sky blur into one infinite blue.

Style cue: Roll up your sleeves, unbutton the collar, and let the watch breathe. Like you, it looks best when it’s effortlessly itself.

Evening: The City Reprise

Setting: A dinner at a quiet corner table in Milan’s Brera district.

Dress the San Marco with a charcoal double-breasted blazer, black knit turtleneck, and polished Chelsea boots. Add a slim leather bracelet or vintage signet ring to complete the look. The watch’s size ensures it slides easily under a cuff—its lustrous enamel a subtle flash in candlelight, more intimate than ostentatious.

In a room full of louder statements, the San Marco’s restraint becomes its allure. It says you know what matters: craftsmanship, heritage, and the art of letting refinement speak for itself.

Style cue: Think monochrome layers and texture contrast—cashmere, brushed steel, and flinqué enamel in perfect dialogue.

Final Thought

The Ulysse Nardin San Marco is for those who understand that style isn’t about standing out—it’s about staying timeless. Whether you’re navigating a boardroom, a seaside escape, or a night in the city, this piece adapts not to your outfit, but to your attitude.

Because a great watch, like great style, doesn’t define you. It reveals you.

Maker & Model

A striking piece from Ulysse Nardin — the San Marco, reference 133-72-9 — born in the 1990s, offered here in stainless steel with the captivating blue flinqué enamel dial.

Overall State & Character

This San Marco carries the quiet confidence of a watch that has been worn and appreciated, yet carefully looked after. It is not pristine showroom-new, but it is far from tired: a gently worn survivor of the 1990s, showing soft patina, subtle signs of wear and life-lived, which grant it character rather than alarm. In short: well-maintained, with a personality — as opposed to pristine, untouched and sterile.

Case

The 37 mm stainless steel case remains robust and true to form, the proportions still crisp. The lugs show faint tool marks and tiny surface hairlines — consistent with light use over time — but no significant dings or deep gouges. The edges have softened ever so slightly, giving a gentle rounding to the profile that suggests respectful wear rather than abuse. The case-back retains its original finishing and engraving, hinting at its guardianship under a careful owner. The sapphire crystal is intact and clear, though one should note a small scratch located somewhat close to the centre (visible on inspection, but without impeding legibility). That single minor blemish lends no detriment to the piece’s integrity — instead it reminds one this watch has quietly ticked through decades.

Dial

Here the magic truly lives: that rich blue flinqué enamel dial remains vibrant, its guilloché surface catching light in subtle waves and shading from richer lapis to gentle cerulean. The printing is crisp, the appliqué indices clean, and the handset still gleams — no corrosion, no flaking. There are just the faintest signs of age: under close examination tiny micro-spots of wear near the outer minutes-track, consistent with the era yet non-intrusive. From arm’s length, the dial presents like new, with the enamel preserving its gloss, depth and shimmer. This is one of the watch’s strongest points.

Movement

Whilst this description cannot verify internals without opening the case, the history and condition of the exterior strongly suggest the movement has been handled with care. The San Marco’s calibre should be running true, responsive, and ready for its next service interval. Its steady case condition indicates no indication of water ingress or misuse. A full service history is not listed (and box & papers are absent), so as editor I would advise a routine check-up if not recently completed — but no red flags appear visible externally.

Bracelet and Clasp

The original stainless steel bracelet remains attached and in very good condition. The links still articulate smoothly, with only light stretch (appropriate for a 30-plus-year-old steel bracelet) and minimal surface marking. The clasp closes solidly, the locking mechanism firm, and the bracelet presently fits up to a 19 cm wrist comfortably. This means little to no need for extra links at full size, and the aesthetic is very coherent — the bracelet remains in proportion and visually consistent with the case, preserving the integrity of the design.

Box & Papers

There is no original box or papers included. Whilst that might slightly affect provenance or collectability, the absence is offset by the excellent physical condition of the watch itself — the case, dial and bracelet all present in remarkably strong form for their age. The individuality and enjoyment of the piece remain intact even without the full set.

Summary

In total, this Ulysse Nardin San Marco reference 133-72-9 presents as a well-kept, gently worn timepiece with a refined presence. The subtle signs of use (such as the small scratch on the crystal and faint surface wear) lend authenticity, while the dial remains vivid and the case and bracelet strong. It is a watch that tells a story — of use, of time passed, of craftsmanship still resonant — rather than one frozen in a box. For a collector or wearer who appreciates the marriage of provenance, solidity and visual appeal, this piece offers a compelling narrative on the wrist.