PATEK PHILIPPE (Jaspe Dakota)

Maker: Patek Philippe
Reference: 4355
Year: 02.10.86
Material: 18k Yellow Gold, cushion-shaped case surrounded by pavé-set diamonds, with additional diamond accents on the sides.
Dial: Jaspe Dakota
Dimensions: 28mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Clasp: bracelet 18k yellow gold with a “honeycomb” pattern
Box & Papers: Full Set with original Invoice

While Patek Philippe is rightly celebrated as the guardian of high horology — a maison synonymous with perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and the pursuit of mechanical excellence — there exists another, more intimate chapter of its legacy: the art of jewellery watchmaking. It is within this world of gem-setting, ornamental stone dials, and sculptural goldwork that Patek Philippe revealed its most sensual and artistic side.

From as early as the 1930s, Patek Philippe began to explore watches as objects of adornment, not merely instruments of time. Women’s models in particular became expressions of refinement and individuality, often produced in small series or even unique pieces. These creations married Swiss precision with the savoir-faire of Geneva’s finest jewellers — goldsmiths, gem-setters, and engravers who shared the maison’s uncompromising pursuit of perfection.

During the 1950s through the 1980s, as the language of luxury evolved, Patek Philippe expanded this universe of high jewellery pieces. The post-war decades saw the rise of elegant cocktail watches, often crafted in yellow or white gold and adorned with diamonds, sapphires, or coral. By the late 1970s and 1980s, the maison began to incorporate semi-precious stone dials — lapis lazuli, malachite, onyx, and jaspe — materials prized not for their rarity alone, but for their individuality. No two dials were ever the same, giving each watch a personality shaped by nature itself.

The Reference 4355, produced in the mid-1980s, sits firmly within this tradition. It represents a period when Patek Philippe’s designers were embracing bolder, more architectural shapes — cushion and tonneau cases, intricate gold bracelets, and gem-setting techniques that transformed watches into objets d’art. These were not mass-produced pieces; they were handmade, limited in number, and catered to clients who viewed a Patek Philippe not only as a mark of prestige but as an heirloom jewel.

What makes these jewellery pieces so compelling today is their balance — the way technical mastery and aesthetic grace coexist. Beneath the pavé diamonds and ornamental dials beats a movement crafted to the same exacting standards as the brand’s grand complications. The result is something quietly radical: a watch that speaks both of engineering genius and of timeless beauty.

In the broader narrative of Patek Philippe’s history, these jewellery watches serve as a reminder that the maison’s greatness has never rested solely on complexity. It lies, rather, in its ability to infuse artistry into every form — whether a perpetual calendar or a gem-studded masterpiece like the Reference 4355. They are the poetry of precision, translated into gold and light.

The Modern Classic — For Daytime Elegance

Pair the 4355 with a cream silk blouse, tailored high-waist trousers, and soft loafers or kitten heels. Let the warm tone of the 18k yellow gold echo through minimalist gold earrings or a single bangle. The jaspe Dakota dial introduces an organic texture that contrasts beautifully with clean, modern fabrics. It’s the kind of understated luxury that quietly signals confidence in boardrooms and lunch meetings alike.

Style Tip: Skip other statement jewellery — let the watch be the centerpiece. Its pavé diamonds and honeycomb bracelet already provide a whisper of brilliance that catches light with every movement.

The Artistic Bohemian — For Afternoon or Gallery Moments

For a more creative flair, combine the 4355 with a flowing silk dress in earthy or jewel tones — think amber, forest green, or deep burgundy. Add soft suede boots and a cashmere wrap for texture. The natural marbling of the jaspe dial resonates with these organic materials, creating a dialogue between nature and design.

Style Tip: This is where vintage gold accessories or a pair of sculptural earrings shine. They don’t compete with the watch — they echo its artistic spirit.

The Evening Sophisticate — For Dinner or Events

When night falls, the 4355 comes into its element. Its cushion case and diamond pavé shimmer under low light, lending effortless glamour to a black velvet dress or an ivory silk gown. The yellow gold glows against darker tones, while the jaspe dial provides a subtle contrast — earthy yet refined.

Style Tip: Keep it modern and elegant. A sleek hairstyle, red lipstick, and no necklace — just the watch and perhaps a single gold ring. Think Catherine Deneuve meets modern Milan.

This Patek Philippe Reference 4355 has been exceptionally well preserved, retaining its full integrity and presence nearly four decades after its creation. The 18k yellow gold case remains sharp and defined, with beautifully polished surfaces that show only minimal signs of gentle wear. The integrated honeycomb bracelet is tight, its texture and flexibility testifying to the craftsmanship of Geneva’s finest goldsmiths.

The diamond pavé setting across the bezel and case sides is complete, with every stone securely set and exhibiting a lively brilliance under natural light. The sapphire crystal remains clean and clear.

The jaspe Dakota dial, while still deeply attractive with its rich marbling and natural tone variations, shows a small, barely noticeable hairline crack at 6 o'clock — a common occurrence with ornamental stone dials due to their organic nature. It does not detract from the visual harmony of the watch, nor affect its functionality, but rather adds to its individuality and character.

Overall, the piece is in superb condition, both mechanically and cosmetically — an extraordinary example of Patek Philippe’s jewellery watchmaking from the 1980s, complete with its full set and original invoice, ready to be treasured as both a work of art and a piece of horological history.