AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK

Maker: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak
Reference: 56023SA
Year: 1990's
Serial: xxx
Material: Stainless Steel & Gold
Dial: Grey Tapisserie
Dimensions: 36mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Box & Papers: None

When the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56023SA appeared in the 1990s, it carried within its slim case a quiet revolution — one that began nearly two decades earlier. To understand its significance, you must go back to 1972, when Gérald Genta’s now-legendary design first defied convention.

At a time when gold dress watches ruled the salons of Geneva, Genta sketched something radical overnight — a luxury watch in stainless steel, with an octagonal bezel, visible screws, and a bracelet integrated into the case. It was industrial, architectural, even a little defiant. That design became the Royal Oak, a name borrowed from the British battleships that protected the monarchy — a fitting metaphor for a watch that would guard Swiss watchmaking through its greatest crisis.

By the late 1970s, however, the Quartz Crisis hit full force. Japanese manufacturers flooded the market with precision quartz watches at a fraction of the cost, and traditional maisons faced extinction. But Audemars Piguet — ever the innovator — did not turn its back on technology. Instead, it chose to master it on its own terms.

Morning Clarity — The Creative Commute

Start your day with quiet confidence. Picture yourself stepping out of your apartment, espresso in hand, a cool morning breeze brushing past the brushed steel and gold of the Royal Oak.

Pair it with a soft ivory turtleneck, a navy wool overshirt, and tailored khaki trousers. The clean lines of your outfit mirror the octagonal bezel’s precision, while the subtle shimmer of gold complements your morning optimism. The watch doesn’t shout — it nods politely, as if to say: Yes, I have taste, but I don’t need to prove it.

Afternoon Edge — The Gallery or the Boardroom

By midday, the Royal Oak earns its keep. Its versatility allows you to navigate both a board meeting and an impromptu art opening without changing a thing.

Try a charcoal double-breasted blazer, an open white Oxford, and stone-grey tailored jeans. The steel case plays against the blazer’s structure; the gold links flash discreetly as you gesture — just enough to catch the light and a few admiring eyes. This is the Royal Oak at its most charismatic: refined, but never uptight.

Evening Poise — The Dinner That Matters

As the city lights reflect off the bezel’s alternating brushed and polished facets, the Royal Oak transitions effortlessly into evening.

Pair it with a black cashmere roll-neck, a slim-cut tuxedo jacket, and loafers without socks — the kind of look that feels as good at the bar of Hôtel Costes as it does in a discreet corner of Harry’s Bar. The gold accents echo candlelight, giving the impression that the watch itself participates in the conversation. It’s not about flexing wealth — it’s about understanding timeless discretion.

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 56023SA from the 1990s remains a striking example of the model’s timeless appeal. Having been worn but clearly cherished, it still retains its original factory polish—an increasingly rare attribute for a watch of this age. The iconic 36mm case, crafted from stainless steel and yellow gold, preserves the sharp geometry and satin-brushed surfaces that define Genta’s design, with only light traces of wear visible upon close inspection.

The grey Petite Tapisserie dial is wonderfully preserved, showing crisp texture and excellent color depth beneath the sapphire crystal. The applied gold hour markers and hands have aged evenly, adding warmth to the cool steel tones. The two-tone bezel, with its gold screws and alternating brushed and polished facets, has developed a gentle, natural sheen that speaks to the passage of time without losing definition.

The integrated bracelet remains tight and fluid, showing only minor wear, and the clasp operates securely and smoothly. The quartz movement performs as expected, a testament to Audemars Piguet’s precision even in its most understated creations.

Overall, this Royal Oak has been worn with appreciation rather than indifference—retaining its original polish, honest charm, and the unmistakable character of a true classic that has lived, not languished.